Exploring Wartime France Through a Soldier’s Letters

What did American soldiers do when they weren’t on the front lines? Through the handwritten letters of William Eustis, an American officer serving in France during World War I, students follow his journeys through the French countryside, visits with French officers, drives to historic towns and meals at renowned restaurants. Using primary sources and maps, students reconstruct his travels while exploring how culture, geography and everyday life continued even during a global conflict. 

(For Virginia teachers: this activity connects to SOLs USII.6, WG.1, VUS.1, WHII.1)

In 1903, William and Edith Eustis bought Oatlands as their vacation home. In 1917, as the U.S. entered World War I, William wanted to help. Because he was older, not militarily-trained, but fluent in French, he was asked to be a translator. Specifically, he was a translator for General John “Blackjack” Pershing, the commander of the American Expeditionary Force (the U.S. military in France). William sailed to Europe with General Pershing in May 1917, and although his job did change by the end of the year, he remained in France until December 1918.  

While he was away, William wrote to his wife, Edith, nearly every day. He wrote a total of about 2,100 pages, sent home in 291 envelopes. Edith kept these letters the rest of her life, and today they are part of the archives at Oatlands. In these letters, William described his day-to-day, the people he met and – to some extent – the places he visited. But due to military censoring, he couldn’t always tell his wife exactly where they visited. Although William’s letters didn’t go through the same censoring officers that enlisted men’s letters did, he was not allowed to send home too much detail about where American soldiers were. To figure out where he was takes careful reading, piecing clues together and researching locations.

Is it easy to read his handwriting?  

Why did the military order letters home to be censored? (Hint: Censoring is the removing or omitting of pieces of information, often for security or secrecy.)

List the clues William gives in his letter – first letters of place names, ancient names for towns, landmarks along the way, distances to places, etc.  

Once you have a theory of what town he was talking about, what clues can you use to confirm whether that is right or wrong?  

Compare to the map of France and draw a line along the route he took.

If you were General Pershing, would you have given them permission to go? 

Is there a benefit to members of the military getting to go out and have fun every now and then?  

Was there a risk to letting a car full of officers go driving around the countryside? 

Did anything else stand out to you?

On Sept. 9, 1917, William went on a day-trip with Col. John Hines, Major King, and a French officer, Major Jacquot. Jacquot, being local, served as a tour guide for the three Americans, and they visited a number of historical sites in the area. William, however, did not name each of the towns they visited. Officers and soldiers were not allowed to share specific information about where they were, so even though William was fairly certain everybody in France knew where U.S. military headquarters was, he couldn’t send those sorts of details in a letter.

Transcript:

[10 Sep 1917 page 1] 2 Monday Sep. 10 – Dearest. Had a most enjoyable aft. yesterday. Only wished you could have been along – Hines + King went + Jacquot. He knows the country well + showed us a lot of things we would have missed – We turned off high road to L– s– at Hume + went to see the reservoir at St. Ciergues, a wonderful digue1, which you drive over + then across the plateau of L– s– + stopped to visit the Grotto of Sabinus – He was the Gaul Chieftain whom Ceaser [sic] defeated. He hid in the grotto for 7 years, his wife bringing him food – He was finally caught + killed 78 years after Christ! The source of the Marne [River] is about 100 yards below the cave – Then to L–s – a wonderfully situated walled town – Built on the ruins of the Gallic town of Lingons.

[10 Sep 1917 page 2] It drops off on 3 sides very abruptly to the valley below – some of the towers in the battlements date fr. 14th Cy.2 The whole of the fort was remodeled by Vauban3 – 2 fine churches one pure Roman- the Cathedral part Roman + then the first transitory stage – Very handsome. A beautiful renaissance chapel – Some lovely renaissance façades – Walk 4kil around the walls – superb view – A very fine promenade outside on edge of plateau. under 4 rows of elms + lindens – Altogether one of the most interesting places I have ever seen – We were a bit too hurried as Hines thought we should get back before dark as funny enough none of us had a permis de circulation,4 but no one stopped, tho’ Jacquot when we started nearly had a fit as he said we should surely be arrested. Not once stopped or asked for our papers. We ran home the 35kil in 36mi! Good road, I am getting more used to speed. No motors tho’ allowed on the roads so that makes a difference We had an 8 cyl. Cadillac + she took the steep hills perfectly.

On Sept. 30, 1917, William wrote his wife that the night before – Saturday night – he had gotten the chance to go out of town for dinner with his friends, Charles de Chambrun and Col. James Harbord. The plan was to leave at 4 p.m., but William needed permission from General Pershing (his commanding officer) and the General hadn’t been to the office yet. The three men left the office to get in their car and drive to the General’s house so they could ask permission. Right at that moment, the General pulled up in his car. At which point, according to William, “we all stood like schoolboys caught playing truant!” Fortunately, the General laughed and gave the three men permission to go, as long as they were back in town by midnight.

Transcript:

[30 Sep 1917 page 2] A lovely drive 130 kil. – We had a panne5 en route + lost ½ hour but we got there by 7ocl The moon was up + it was gorgeous. Went to Walter’s Restaurant6 + ordered dinner. then strolled about admiring the place –

[30 Sep 1917 page 3] 3. It is really “splendide” + so perfect. Harbord agrees with Chambrun, it is finer than St. Marks. The moon was brilliant + the buildings stood out wonderfully + the statue of Stanislaus in the centre very effective. – We had an excellent dinner, then strolled about + saw an “Avion” raid starting off for night bombing. The Place with its wonderful setting the moon + the fleet of “Avions” flying over head made a wonderful scenic effect. We left 920 + were back at our “Abri” at 1150, just on time – I am sure it did us all good.

Humes – today Humes-Jorquenay, along main route D619 south from Chaumont Grotto de Sabinus (Sabinus Cave) – Balesmes-sur-Marne Lingons – William misspelled “Lingones”, the name of a Gallic nation whose main city was Andemantunnum (modern-day Langres).

Chez Walter was located on Place Stanislaus in Nancy. The restaurant was already known for its high-class fare when Julien Walter purchased it in 1893, but with his changes and leadership it became internationally known. 

Nancy, Lorraine, has a statue of Stanislaus I, who ordered the square built in the mid-18^th century while the duchy was under Polish rule, in the center-city. The area is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The town is about 130 km from Chaumont.

The Eustis Era: Learn about the Eustis family, who owned Oatlands from 1903 to 1964.